How Sephora let shoppers touch the makeup

For most of the 20th century, buying makeup and perfume in a department store meant standing at a brand’s counter and asking a salesperson for help. Each brand had its own staff and its own space.

Dominique Mandonnaud, a French perfume retailer, had a different idea. His stores let customers walk the aisles and test products freely, without pressure from brand reps. In 1993 he bought the Sephora chain and took its name.

LVMH and America

LVMH bought Sephora in 1997. The next year it opened its first U.S. store in New York, followed by a large store in SoHo. The open-sell layout, black and white stripes and wide selection of brands set it apart from department store counters.

The modern formula

Sephora added its own label, a loyalty program called Beauty Insider and a large online business. It became a launch pad for newer brands, including many founded by celebrities and makeup artists.

In 2021 Sephora started opening shops inside Kohl’s department stores across the country, ending an earlier deal with JCPenney.

Competition

Ulta Beauty is its main rival in the United States, with a mix of drugstore and prestige brands and salon services. The competition has pushed both chains to keep adding brands and in-store services.