Words by Few garments have moved as smoothly from function to fashion as the trench coat. Designed for soldiers, adopted by film stars and reinterpreted every season by designers, it remains one of the few pieces of outerwear that looks right with almost anything.
Military origins
The trench coat’s roots lie in 19th-century British outerwear. Waterproof fabrics developed in that era made lighter rain-resistant coats possible. Two British companies, Burberry and Aquascutum, both claim a role in developing early versions.
Thomas Burberry invented gabardine in 1879, a tightly woven, water-resistant fabric that was lighter and more breathable than rubberized cloth. Burberry supplied officers’ coats in gabardine, and during World War I the design was refined for life in the trenches, giving the coat its name.
Many of the trench’s signature details had practical purposes. Shoulder epaulettes held gloves or equipment and displayed rank. A storm flap at the shoulder, often called a gun flap, added protection against rain. D-rings on the belt were used to hang gear. Wrist straps kept out wind and water, and a back yoke helped rain run off.
From soldiers to screen stars
After the war, officers kept wearing their trench coats in civilian life, and the style spread. Hollywood made it iconic. Humphrey Bogart’s trench in Casablanca (1942) became one of the most famous costumes in film history, and the coat became shorthand for detectives, spies and romantic heroes. Audrey Hepburn wore one in Breakfast at Tiffany’s (1961), helping establish it as a women’s classic, and Meryl Streep’s character wore a memorable trench in Kramer vs. Kramer (1979).
Designers have continued to rework the shape. Yves Saint Laurent included trenches in his collections in the 1960s, and Burberry’s runway shows under Christopher Bailey in the 2000s and 2010s reintroduced the trench as a fashion statement with metallic finishes, cropped lengths and bold colors.
The classic details
A traditional trench coat typically includes:
- Double-breasted front with 10 buttons
- Wide notched lapels and a collar that can be buttoned closed
- Epaulettes on the shoulders
- Storm flap on one shoulder and a back yoke
- Belt with D-rings, and buckled wrist straps
- Raglan or set-in sleeves
- Length at or just below the knee
Modern versions often simplify these details. Single-breasted styles, shorter lengths and softer fabrics are common.
How to choose a good one
Fabric. Cotton gabardine remains the gold standard. Look for a dense weave that resists water and wind. Blends may be lighter or cheaper but can wrinkle and wear faster.
Fit at the shoulders. The shoulders should sit at your natural shoulder line, with room for a sweater or blazer underneath. Sleeves should end around the base of the thumb.
Length. Knee length is the most versatile. Petite frames may prefer slightly shorter lengths, while taller people can carry midi and longer styles.
Color. Honey, beige and khaki are the classics. Navy, black and olive offer subtle alternatives.
Construction. Check for clean seams, sturdy buttons and a quality lining. A removable liner extends wear into colder months.
How to wear it
The trench works over a suit or dress for work, and over jeans and a sweater on weekends. Leave it open for an easy look, or belt it tight for a defined waist. Many people knot the belt at the back instead of buckling it, which keeps the coat neat when open. Pair it with loafers, sneakers or ankle boots, depending on the mood.
Caring for it
Brush off dirt after wear, hang it on a broad hanger to protect its shape, and follow the care label. Most cotton gabardine trenches should be dry-cleaned rather than machine-washed. Re-waterproofing sprays can help restore water resistance over time.
A well-made trench can last for decades. For more style advice, visit our Style section.