Words by Lisbon is a city of hills, light and river views. Built across steep slopes above the wide mouth of the Tagus River, it rewards visitors who walk slowly, stop often and climb to the next viewpoint. Three days is enough for a satisfying introduction.
Getting oriented
Lisbon’s historic center spreads across several neighborhoods. Baixa, the flat downtown grid, was rebuilt after the devastating earthquake of 1755 and runs down to the grand riverside square, Praça do Comércio. Chiado and Bairro Alto, on the hill to the west, are known for shops, cafés and nightlife. Alfama, to the east, is the oldest quarter, a maze of narrow lanes that largely survived the earthquake. Belém, a few miles west along the river, holds many of the city’s major monuments.
The city’s public transit includes a metro, buses, historic trams and funiculars. A rechargeable Viva Viagem card works on most of them. The Lisboa Card adds free entry to many museums.
Day one: Alfama and the castle
Start early at the Castelo de São Jorge, the Moorish castle at the top of the hill above Alfama, for sweeping views over the city. Walk down through Alfama’s lanes, past laundry lines and tiled façades, to the Lisbon Cathedral (Sé), the city’s oldest church, begun in the 12th century.
The Miradouro de Santa Luzia and Miradouro das Portas do Sol are two of the best viewpoints over the rooftops and river.
In the evening, Alfama is the place to hear fado, Portugal’s mournful traditional song. Fado was inscribed on UNESCO’s list of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity in 2011. Many small restaurants host performances with dinner.
Day two: Belém
Take the tram or train west to Belém. The Jerónimos Monastery, a masterpiece of the ornate Manueline style, and the riverside Belém Tower are together a UNESCO World Heritage Site and commemorate Portugal’s Age of Discovery. Nearby is the Padrão dos Descobrimentos, a monument to the explorers.
Don’t leave Belém without trying a pastel de nata, the crisp custard tart, at Pastéis de Belém, which has made them from a closely guarded recipe since 1837. Lines move faster than they look.
The MAAT (Museum of Art, Architecture and Technology) on the waterfront is worth a stop for its striking curved building and rooftop views.
Day three: Sintra or the city
Sintra, about 40 minutes by train from Rossio station, makes a classic day trip. Its forested hills hold fairy-tale palaces, including the colorful Pena Palace, as well as the Moorish Castle and the gardens of Quinta da Regaleira. The Cultural Landscape of Sintra is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Go early, book palace tickets online and wear comfortable shoes for steep paths.
If you stay in the city, visit the Calouste Gulbenkian Museum, known for its outstanding art collection spanning ancient Egypt to the 20th century, and spend the afternoon in Chiado’s cafés and bookshops. Livraria Bertrand, founded in 1732, is often cited as the oldest operating bookstore in the world.
What to eat
Portuguese food is generous and seafood-focused. Try grilled sardines, especially in summer, bacalhau (salt cod), which is prepared in countless ways, and bifana, a simple pork sandwich. The Time Out Market in the Cais do Sodré area gathers stalls from well-known local chefs. Pair meals with Portuguese wines, including vinho verde from the north.
Practical tips
- Wear good shoes. Lisbon’s hills and slippery cobblestone sidewalks, called calçada portuguesa, are hard on feet.
- Ride the trams early. The famous Tram 28 through Alfama is crowded by midmorning, and pickpockets work the busiest routes.
- Book key sights ahead. Jerónimos, Belém Tower and Sintra’s palaces have long lines in high season.
- Consider shoulder seasons. Spring and early fall bring mild weather and smaller crowds than July and August.
Lisbon is easy to fall for. For more city guides, visit our Travel section.